Thursday, January 10, 2013

Turkish Delight


Coffee has always been the fuel of dissent, the amplifier of resistance, and Turkish coffee is certainly part of such tradition.

  The first coffee products introduced to Turkey date back to the 1500's. At first, the pulp of the coffee cherry was mashed and fermented much like a wine. Later around 1555 royalty started to roast and then brew the beans inside. Any sultan worth his palace would have a royal coffee servant called a Kahveciusta. This man had to be highly trusted and usually went on to a higher position of authority in the kings court. The whole ceremony would require 40 servants to assist.

   As time went by the Turkish coffee worked its way across class structure ending up as a household item. The traditional method of preparation is as such - roasting the green beans in a pan over open flame to a mild city+ roast, grinding the beans with a mortar and pestle to a very fine dust (even finer than espresso), sugar is then added, and depending on the person cardamom to taste. This was all then added to a special pot called an Ibrek, with the grounds floating on top of the water. A series of slow rolling boils extracted the flavor solubles in the coffee.

   After boiling, the liquid is very dark and thick, the sugar dissolves into the water and some of the coffee and cardamon particles as well. The coffee is then left to cool and poured into a small 2 ounce cup. There is no filter involved in the brewing, which makes it unique in the coffee world. With this non-filter process some of the grounds pour into the cup and settle at the bottom. However, the Ibrek has bevels meant to hold back most of the grounds.

 Turkish coffee at its best is a social drink which teaches patience and reverence for every moment. The slow tedious nature of preparation demands a calm patient attitude, while the small amount of coffee forces you to savor each sip.

  In Turkey, the Turkish coffeehouse served as the meeting place for men to discuss problems of the day. As such, those who had objections to the government often gathered in coffee houses to talk against the powers that be. The government quickly took notice and soon outlawed both the coffeehouses and Turkish coffee itself. The first offense resulted in a beating, and the second, drowning in the nearest river.

   As we know prohibition doesn't always work well and despite the law popularity of coffee grew and spread into new countries. All eligible women would learn how to properly brew Turkish coffee, much like tea in Japan. It was said that the only way for a bride to voice her opinion of her husband-to-be was in how she made the coffee. Sweet meant she approved, mild - indifferent, and bitter - utter dread.

 So next time you come to Pour Jons to plan a revolution, try a Turkish and connect with your rebel roots!

Drink thoughtfully.

Andrew